Food Processing vs. Nutrition ?

AKA - Does Processing make it a Lesser Food ?

The distilled opinion is "the more you process the less the consumer receives".

For various reasons the most common vehicle for food delivery has been perverted.  In response to "manufactured food", fresh food advocates are informing the public about  real food and real food costs.  

Living on the 100-Mile Diet , Revisiting Carrying Capacity:, Natural Foods, Organic Foods, etc.  It appears that greater "inputs" yield less nutrition.  Large marketing budgets promote convenience and "filling the belly" instead of feeding the body for growth and health.  Increased time spent transporting food means, as well, increased food degradation time.  Industry will typically attempt to address product appearance indicators that influence a consumer.  Unfortunately nutrition is sacrificed for the sake of colour and appearance.  

Before focusing on one product not usually covered in the fresh food debates I would like to add that I believe that the movement advocating quality food is gaining membership.  

My interest is the freshness of coffee.  Of course people do not live by freshness of coffee alone.  That would be silly because it mostly feeds the soul, the well being, the disposition, etc. Coffee has undergone a centralizing process which exchanged convenience for quality.  Bigger is not better if the product is lessened.  We have not developed Star Trek transporters to move food instantly to the consumer while maintaining the product integrity.  If the past is any indicator this futuristic device would further degrade the food.  Warehousing roasted coffee decreases the value to the end user.

I advocate that the coffee roaster, grinder, espresso machine, and brewer should be at the same site.  Nothing gives more credibility to the freshness of the product as when the consumer can observe the preparation.  To this end Jim Townley uses the moniker of "the Theatre of Roasting".  It encourages clients to learn about the process while it reinforces the artisanal qualities of freshness and caring preparation.  Small batch roasting, in our case 3 kg batches, allows the RoastMaster to roast the requirements of the next few days.  Most likely more than one batch of each coffee will be roasted but that is a choice based on sales.

This is a simple food preparation model even though it appears to counter the produced locally mantra of some of the above links.  We are not blessed with local coffee plantations but because the coffee bean is a seed which is designed by nature for long term storage it may be consumed at a distance from its origins with a certain proviso.  So where is the Freshness Challenge?  Roasting transforms the bean and creates havoc with the storage capability of the bean.  Roasted Coffee degrades quickly despite touted storage "solutions".   Freshly ground stale beans is an advertising distraction which offers no benefit to the consumer.  The analogy of the weak chain link is true.  Nothing will resurrect stale coffee not even a marketing campaign.  

For the best cup of coffee start with a freshly roasted high mountain grown Arabica bean that is ground just before brewing.

Staling of Roasted Coffee

Coffee stales much faster than it is commonly perceived.  An extreme example is noted in "Coffee Technology"by Michael Sivetz where he mentions that moisture absorption from the air or due to water quenching need only to be 1% to noticeably stale coffee within the hour.  This represents 30 cc (1 fluid ounce ) per 3 kg ( 6.6 lb ) batch which,  considering that the beans lost 12 to 20 times that much moisture when roasting, is quite significant.  Advocates of water quenching claim that all the water evaporates as it hits the bean.  I am not so certain that this is so because after roasting the bean is very porous which means that the water will quickly cool the outside layer the bean will then have difficulty conducting the heat to the surface to evaporate 100% of the moisture.  The increased porosity will help draw the moisture inside.

Each opening of the container allows more moist air to reach the roasted coffee.   Sivetz writes that the beans are "moderately stale" within a week, more stale within two weeks and stale in three weeks.  Greater surface area i.e. ground beans significantly increases the absorption of air and moisture.

Vacuum packaging does remove most of the air but if it is done within a few hours of roasting it can create problems because of the high pressure CO2 will be released from the beans and inflate the bag.  If the coffee is ground the CO2 will be mostly released within the hour.

In theory the Valve on the Bag permits a longer storage time but I am sceptical about that valve working perfectly.  The changes in air pressure are small and applied over long periods of time as the barometric pressure changes which causes the bag to breathe.  The valves are attached to a bag that is filled with coffee beans which is not a flat surface hence I am thinking that it leaks and that it's purpose is to prevent the bag from bursting from C02 pressure.  Before going further that has to be tested.  I reiterate that the only safe bet is buy Freshly Roasted coffee.

No Carbon Credits Required !

November 1st, 2011 – Victoria, B.C.

Many coffee roasting companies across Canada claim 'carbon neutral' status these days, however, consumers are encouraged to look closely at their labels to find out 'how' they achieve this. Carbon credits are being bought by a number of roasting companies whose technology is outdated and continues to pollute the environment. Many companies are folding the costs of carbon credits into their cost of goods. 'If you look closely, many coffee companies are claiming carbon neutral status, but all they're doing is buying credits to offset their emissions', states Fresh Cup President, Jim Townley. 'The truth is, the consumer is likely paying a higher price for a product without even knowing it'. No matter how you slice buying carbon credits, they are a cost to any company and many companies are buying them more for their marketing value than the purpose that they were intended for. 'Whether you plant a tree, or buy credits to off-set the carbon emissions produced in making a product, it costs money', notes Townley. That cost has to show up somewhere along the line, and if the cost to buy credits is left low like it currently is, many companies will continue to pollute and make consumers pay the price. 'What's the point of low cost credits, if the cost can be added to the product for the consumer to pay ? Where's the motivation for companies to change their business practices to minimize the impact on the environment', asks Townley. 'Our approach is simple…be sustainable in how we roast coffee by reusing the heat, while drastically minimizing the emissions, then there's no carbon credits required'.

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There is even more to the story !

The unfortunate part about marketing claims vs. true development and technical improvements is that the marketing claims focus on changing perception rather improving the equipment.  It is the easy way out which in this case does nothing for the local air quality if someone planted trees hundreds of kilometres away.  The article above does not mention that it took a decade to reduce the Roastaire™ emissions to a small fraction of conventional roasters.  In the process the energy required to roast was reduced to about 1/6 of a conventional coffee roaster.

The Roastaire™ was designed for the Café environment where people can observe the roasting process.  We refer to that as the "theatre of roasting".  The roaster is a compact unit that includes Chaff Cyclone, SmokEater™ (pollution controls), Pneumatic Bean Conveyor, and a Packaging Silo.  The roaster is approximately 6.5 feet high.  The roaster is controlled by a computer based Roast Monitor which  also configures the roaster, through the use of pneumatic valves, for the various modes in the roasting process.

More information is given in the post "Sustainable Design Follows Function"  such as the attention given to ergonomics.  An obvious example is the placement of the Loading Hopper which is placed at counter height rather than above the RoastMasters head.  The roasted beans are quickly cooled internally so that the smoke can be neutralized before it is vented.  The aim has been to improve and streamline the roasting session.

Café owners that buy roasted beans see " FRESH Coffee! " post are simply paying for someone else's roaster without getting all the benefits.

FRESHLY Roasted Coffee!

FRESHNESS is a contentious topic.  Groups that can't provide fresh coffee because of their long supply chain attempt to ignore this essential factor when selling a perishable food.  Cafés that Roast OnSite say that coffee staling begins to be noticeable one week after roasting.  They aim to sell "take home coffee beans" within the week and to serve all coffee within 1 1/2 weeks.  The question they ask is "Would you buy 10 day old bread?".  We attempt to bolster this strategy by providing an efficient small batch 3 kg roaster which makes it easy for the café to roast only the coffee beans that are required for the next few days.  This roaster benefits from the advantages of using electric heating which allows the re-circulation of the heated air after it is scrubbed of the smoke particles.  The built-in SmokEater™breaks down the exhaust gasses which otherwise cause neighbours to complain about roasting odours.

Café owners that buy from a local roaster sometimes do have fresh coffee but, obviously, they can't proudly serve their own creation.  The passion of creation communicates very well at the counter.  Perhaps they do not really know when the coffee beans were roasted.  One RoastMaster explained it like this: we put it for sale as an estate arabica, after some time we make blends, and if we still have some left we wet a cloth with some flavouring and tumble it and the beans in a small drum.  Is that flavouring to enhance or mask?  To the Café owner "Does the cost of your coffee pay for your roaster or your supplier's?"

A lot of lobbying dollars were spent to convince governments that coffee beans last more than 18 months therefore did not require expiry dates, in other words they concluded that roasted beans were non perishable.  This decision was required by centralized roasters and grocery chains because they cannot transport the beans to client coffee pots within two weeks.  Consequently, they promote peripheral messages such as freshly ground, freshly brewed, consistency, convenience, low price, contests, etc.   They can accessorize the product as much as they want but if you start with stale beans you can't make a quality drink.  Coffee parallels the preparation of food in that increased processing equals diminished quality.  Some of the tricks are to add cheaper robusta beans, which are more bitter than arabica beans, to the blend so that the espresso will have more crema like freshly roasted coffee.  It is not a great espresso and most likely they will suggest that you give it some zing with a flavouring.  Freshly roasted coffee has plenty of zing plus it has complexity that a flavouring does not even try to achieve.

Out of curiosity two books were consulted; one by a large Italian central roaster and other by UK specialists.  The first only mentions "freshness" as it pertains to serving it quickly after it is brewed.  The second book does not mention freshness.  Freshness is not part of the centralized roasting business model.  As a consumer the choice is yours "Do you wish to pay for freshness or warehousing?".

Packaging is often ascribed miracle properties.  In the first day(s) following roasting the beans emit a lot of carbon dioxide which can burst bags.  Hence, the use of the valve.  If the valve is the highest point in the bag the CO2 will force out the lighter gases such as air which is beneficial but it is hardly locking the flavour in.  One web site says that packaged coffee lasts a few months until the bag is opened but a little further down they claim: How long does coffee last? Coffee packaged with a freshness valve = 12 months then add a little further Ground coffee once the bag is opened = 2 weeks.  Check for consistency of message and verify that information.  Your priority is taste or the coffee experience theirs is sales.  Studies have been done about slowing down the degradation through cold storage but that requires colder deep freezers than those in homes.  An additional problem is that, due to the pressure differential, the deep freeze is the area with the highest humidity in a house.  Moisture accelerates staleness.

If possible observe a roasting session, you will learn.  You may find that some of the urban based coffee roasters are not used because of pollution complaints and that some RoastMasters , that do not have Afterburners, roast during the night. 

To improve the roasted beans' relatively short lifespan they should be ground just before brewing.  Make a comparison with beans that have been ground for half an hour. I expect that after half an hour the finely ground beans will make a flat coffee.  An espresso will have greatly reduced crema.  You will then be in a position to judge the statement "Ground coffee once the bag is opened = 2 weeks"

My mantra is "Buy from the roaster".